19 March 2012

Chusma

In one of my past lives, I was definitely a gossipy old granny. I love knowing who's who when we're out at a restaurant and checking out people everywhere I go. I know. Kind of lame, but it's fun to me. Luckily in BA there are lots of quasi "famous" (let's just say local "celebs" aka B-list people) that you're bound to see, whether you're at the gym, a Palermo restaurant, or somewhere in between.

At Bella Italia last week, we had a pretty good celeb-tastic sighting. Seated all together were City Mayor Mauricio Macri, his stunning wife/fashion designer Juliana Awada, and TV journalist Viviana Canosa. Best part - Viviana used to date/live with Juliana's ex! Juicy details like that make it even more fun to eavesdrop (a little hard to do if you're 5 tables away).



 Two days before, at Bengal (always full of politicos during lunch since it's next door to the Foreign Ministry. Vice-President Amado Boudou totally checked me out when we saw him there last August) with Katie, we saw Carlos Bianchi (one of the most famous soccer players/coaches in Argentina & who oddly resembles Larry David) and Ricardo Alfonsín (former presidential candidate & son of Argentina's first democratically elected president after the military dictatorship ended in 1983). I love a good sighting. Sad.

 
 

12 March 2012

And the Skies Opened Up

Finally, after days of forecasting rain, the skies turned black, the wind started to howl, and the rain began to fall (sideways). These storms are common this time of year in Buenos Aires, and as miserable as they can be when you're caught outside without an umbrella, they're so soothing and meditative to me.

I woke up to an empty house. Jose is in Uruguay and Katie left for New York last night. It was a whirlwind, her trip was so short, and it just wasn't enough time. Being away from your best friend for so long should be illegal. Just laying on the couch in pajamas, eating grapes and reading magazines is infinitely better when you're joined by the person who has known you the longest. It was great.

The winds of change are really blowing through Argentina. It's hard, knowing that there's nothing you can really do about it, but wanting so badly for things to improve. Now when Argentines travel abroad, they won't be able to withdraw dollars from local ATMs unless they have an account here in dollars (which will be subject to approval - you have to demonstrate that your income is enough to justify the purchase of X amount of dollars per month). Please someone tell me how this is good for business, so to speak? How is this OK? As much as I love the Argentines - for their passion, for their insanity, for their downright ridiculous way of life (I mean that in a loving way) - I cannot understand their apathy when it comes to politics and government. No one cares. They just say "ah, it's been this way forever, no use trying to change it." What?! It's odd - because the protest is such a social and cultural tool here - that those who should be miffed by these measures just sit back and shrug their shoulders. The ones causing the roadblocks are the shantytown residents who demand justice for someone who was murdered there days previous. Or who want a raise in their (sadly) already low salary. Or who just want to piss everyone else off and ruin their morning commute. No one protests these new economic measures -- the ATM limits, the THIRD PRICE INREASE OF 2012 confirmed by Moreno, the increasingly stricter import controls ..

I was speaking to a friend who lives in New York today. He's one of the most brilliant people I know, very well-read, cultured, and all around smart. He had no idea what was going on here. Granted I don't expect everyone to be up to date on Argentine ins-and-outs, but I was surprised to be reminded that the press and media in the US are still focused so much on Europe (and then maybe Asia/China). The Economist and the WSJ cover local issues very well, I think, but if you don't read those regularly then you will get a skewed vision. You'll see BA as land of tango and steak, cheap goods and great vacations. There's a big disconnect there.

Anyway, it was disheartening. Not sure why I feel that way, but I do.

Like I said to Katie, I feel like I'm on an island. A very far away island. Screaming so loud but no one can hear me. I think I've lost my voice.


03 March 2012

Beware the Ides of March


This post is delayed. And I will write more tomorrow on my day off most likely. But here is a nice photo that will hopefully make you smile.