30 October 2008

Selección Nacional


So Diego Maradona was annouced to be the new DT of the Argentine National Selection just the other day. The last DT resigned after a pathetic loss to Chile in the World Cup qualifying match; of the last 4 DT's he had the lowest success rate anyway.

I get the feeling that most people are ecstatic to have Maradona lead up the team - for a whole host of reasons I suppose - but I just read online that apparently more than 70% of Argies are against the decision. Who knew ? Despite his drug issues, battle with obesity, and really weird hair, Maradona is Maradona. I find it difficult to contest his greatness when it comes to playing soccer and knowing how to win.

So we'll see how this plays out. I think the Argies have a really great chance for 2010 in South Africa. Speaking of sports and Argentines, I had no idea that the women's world champion of boxing is Argentine. From Polo to Rugby, Field Hockey to Tennis, Soccer to Basketball ( ok only because they won the gold medal / Ginobli ) ... Argies are pretty damn athletic. Good job. I wish we could find a way to score tickets to the Davis Cup in Mar del Plata next month. I want to see Del Potro like Redhead got to !

P.S. if you have NO idea who Diego Maradona is, I think you're only slightly pathetic. Here are some pictures to help "jog the memory" ( I included 3 stages, Normal, Crazy, and Obese )


29 October 2008

I Hate

Economic crises.

The End.

The Maturity Level of the Argies

At this point has hit an all-time low ...

Now anyone who wants to be awesome and come visit me after Christmas / New Year's will have to pay even more than usual, because the Argies want "justice" for visa fees charged to their citizens by the US, UK and Canada.

Read about it here.

28 October 2008

Borrowed from Broph


Because lately I have really been missing the locas from our semester with la UCA ... Thankfully one has returned to listen to me whine about my cravings for Oui Oui and things of that nature, but it's still just not the same without the rest. Four hour lunches, days spent shopping at Maria Cher and starting fights over karaoke at Kimia ( ok so that was just Belligerophy ) ... t'was a lovely life, my friends.

So here is my homage to the last little ride we all took in the Gol, Taxista/Bun/Indio at the wheel, et al ...

27 October 2008

Hospital Horrors

Ok so I promised I would regale you with the hellish Saturday evening / Sunday morning hospital trip. Here I go ...

While we were at quite a fabulous party in Belgrano with our closest and funnest ( not a word ) friends, we had a pretty serious dance party going. The Indio and I were supposed to be leaving for El Tigre circa 10 a.m. but were still going strong around 6. Probably not a good idea but, hey, whatever. By this point most of the people had left and the entire floor was like a little beer pool. Typical, but not optimal for walking - especially in high heels. Poor Mercedes was coming down the stairs, which were slippery, small, and hard to see in the dark ( I almost face planted myself a couple of weeks before ! ) ... She eats it. Badly. Very, very, very and awfully badly. You don't even want to know what it sounded like when her forehead smashed into the floor. I thought I was a pretty brave person but I became as useless as a houseplant and pretty much was an embarrassment to the world of friendship.

Luckily Indio and Manolillo were right there to take over and take charge. We called the ambulance right away because there was enough blood to look like something out of Law & Order. Any kind of cut on the forehead always seems to bleed more anyway. Add the fact that you could see the bone ... and you have a pretty gruesome image. But here's the thing - Mercedes is such a badass, and is so amazing and perfect in every way, she didn't even cry !! She wasn't hysterical at all ( like we all know I would have been ) ... at first she was disoriented but we got her to calm down and despite being pretty much covered in blood, she was fairly relaxed.

Eventually the ambulance came, but unfortunately Manolillo didn't call the number on the back of the health insurance card - he had called like the public 911 instead of the private one - and the first hospital we went to was the most awful place I have ever been. Apparently it's supposed to be one of the better public hospitals, so I don't even want to think about what the worse ones are like. Most of the people who have bad accidents, are run over by buses, are drugged out and drunk, get robbed, and things of that nature show up to said hospital so you can imagine the crowd. Pretty motley. We arrive and it's raining; they have put cardboard boxes all over the floor so people don't slip. Practical, perhaps, but certainly not attractive ( or sanitary ? ). I look around and most of the signs on the walls are either broken, incomplete, or filled in with permanent marker where the lettering has faded.

You can imagine that I didn't want to set foot near the Neurosurgery unit when I saw that half the letters weren't even printed on the wall.

We all wanted to get Mercedes out of there asap but knew they had to do some X-Rays to make sure her bones weren't broken and to clean the wound. In the meantime a little visitor wandered his way into the hospital waiting room, alone and pretty high on something. He was clutching his arm and blood was dripping from his elbow and his fingers. He said that he was robbed but I didn't really pick up the rest of the details from his incoherent rambling. He couldn't even stand and the Indio had to help him to the ground to help stop his swaying. Blood was dripping all over the floor, and the hospital people just had him keep waiting there with everyone else. I was thoroughly grossed out but I felt so bad for this guy - ok so he was pretty bombed and the injury wasn't as bad as it seemed, but he was alone, scared and dripping blood after having been more or less violently robbed. Can someone maybe take him in the back and give him a bed and some water ? I was in shock that he was treated that way.

Once he went inside the hospital, they didn't even come mop up the blood all over the floor. Check please.

After an hour or so we manage to get Mercedes out of there and know we can take her to the better hospital, Swiss Medical. Once we arrive it's a whole different world. A modern building, clean, orderly, it looks like a real hospital. Someone else re-inspects and bandages the wound and says they called the plastic surgeon to come in to sew up the scar. Seeing as this cut was fairly deep and right on her forehead, we all said that she needed to have the best person sew it up as to avoid an ugly scar that would last forever. We're feeling good at this point, and they say the surgeon shouldn't take too long to arrive.

Three hours pass. We are all falling asleep on the waiting room chairs, starving and exhausted and still worried about our little lady's head injury. She was like the most upbeat of us all. She is a genia. I love her. She also looked pretty badass at this point in the morning ... Cute outfit gone awry with a huge white bandage on her head.

Indio and I finally leave around 12 noon when we realize that the surgeon is taking forever and there is nothing else that we can do. And by we, I mean he. I remained useless the entire evening and wish I could have done more, but I guess I provided some moral support and company while everyone else tried to get things done. I got a message from Mercedes at almost 3 p.m. saying she is finally home, relaxed and resting.

The kicker: her bloodstained white pants ( which were pretty much ruined, I thought ) came out completely fine in the wash that morning. The only stains that didn't come out were the ones of the dirt that she sat in while we waited for the ambulance. So strange.

We slept all day and I am still trying to get back on a non-noctural sleeping schedule. Everything today gave me fiaca and I just wanted to relax in the sun. I think tomorrow it's going to be even hotter so I might do some sunbathing in the park.

I went to see an apartment this afternoon that I had found on craigslist. Three foreigners already live there: a German guy, an Honduran, and a French girl. The place was pretty spacious, well located and is really cheap for what it is. However, I realized that I have already done the "live with strangers, and even though they're really nice realize that the apartment will never be as clean as you hope and will lack the little details you would add to your own apartment if you lived alone or with a best friend" kind of thing. I want to be able to have a little haven I can come home to and know that it won't be a mess or just kind of disorganized. So the search continues. I wish I could afford the amazing duplexes I have seen in Palermo ... that would be heaven on earth.

Oh let me add a picture from the Hospital ... I hope you aren't offended, and if you are, well, be glad you weren't there in person.

I'll leave out her face just for the hell of it. At least she still had her adorable flower head-accessory ( quite in style here these days ) with her and at that moment was using her own cellphone to take pictures of the damage. Once she arrived home I asked her how many stitches she got and she said she had completely forgotten to ask. If only I were as laid-back as she is !

Alright, well I guess that is enough for now.

Lessons learned:
- If you find yourself in an ambulance in Buenos Aires, beg them to take you to a private hospital. If you end up at the Piruvano, run away as fast as you can, even if you have to take a cab. Don't get brain surgery at this hospital. You will probably emerge a few screws loose.

- Try not to break your head open in the first place. But if you do, remain in good spirits and just hope you have some really good bleach and stain remover for once you get home.

- Sleeping all day means that you will have a very hard time sleeping at night. Therefore, any and all consumption of caffeine - coca light, coca común, café con leche - should be eliminated from the diet, no matter how impossible that seems.

Formula Uno

Even though it's in Spanish, watch this news video of the Formula 1 thing from Saturday. Do you realize that 85,000 people came to 9 de Julio to watch this ridiculous spectacle. Trust me I am not exaggerating; it's not like he flew by at the speed of light all day long -- he spent 30 minutes driving pretty much in circles.

For your viewing pleasure: Enjoy !!


26 October 2008

Weekend Preview

I just woke up. It is 8 p.m. I spent the entire end of the night / morning into midday at two separate hospitals. It was quite the learning experience, slash incredibly frightening in a few moments. I wasn't there because something had happened to moi, but was there with a very close friend. I made it home around 12.30 and am glad that there is at least a little bit of sunlight left. So much for my commitment to having a more normal sleep schedule.

Anyway, I promise I will give a good detailed story of the Argentine Hospital system, but for now I'm dead. Also, we were supposed to be rowing and asado-ing in El Tigre all day today but of course had to cancel those plans; hence, there will be no photographic documentation to go along with the following post. *Wait !! I just remembered, we took some cell-phone pictures so maybe I will put one up ...

Until then, Happy Sunday and I hope you are being more productive than I am now.

Oh, I will have to remember to add a little something about how Buenos Aires shut down their largest avenue - 9 de Julio - for the better part of Saturday so some Formula 1 racer could do a 3-block circuit at normal driving speeds and then drive in circles, with smoke billowing everywhere and tire marks all over the road. Great idea. Sure.


22 October 2008

Why Today Made Me Happy:

For many reasons. All of them involved animals. Big animals, small animals, smelly ones and the really adorable ones too.

It started off with a GIANT St. Bernard that greeted me while I waited for a cab:


THEN ... driving to Recoleta I passed the Planetarium, a building which I love:

AND THE DUCKS WERE ALL OVER THE SIDEWALK !!! Huge, giant ducks & geese. I was actually giddy with excitement.

Then ... A Bulldog wanted to be my friend:



Then I had delicious ginger & honey lemonade at Natural Deli and walked all the way from Puerreydón to Carranza and took the train home. I felt sassy. And I have a few good job offers on the horizon ... Let's keep our fingers crossed people ...

21 October 2008

A Perfect Rainy Day

For me to sit around, sleep in and enjoy just a little day of rest during my epic and annoying trips to Microcentro. I slept for only about 2 hours on Sunday - stupid "energy-saving" time change that put us ahead another hour - and last night faceplanted on my mattress and ... see ya next week folks.

My job search has been more productive which is encouraging. Finally after 3 weeks of making contact with people and whatnot I have had a few interviews and meetings, which is more encouraging than the blank stares I got at the Job Fair while attempting to explain why I studied philosophy. I'm most looking forward to getting my little apartment ready and making several trips to Jumbo / Easy ( basically Target + Home Depot ) and all of those fun domestic tasks ...

I think I am still recovering from last week and weekend's insanity. All of the people and friends from Las Leñas were making their last stops through Buenos Aires on their way to all points on the map ... Spain, Italy, Canada, France, Colorado. Such is the life of a nomad, I assume. Anyway, we were of course "obligated" to go out to dinner and for drinks with everyone basically every night, which was incredible. And exhausting. Friday was the culmination of a full week of joda ... We went to our friend JP's new Hostel - the Vanilla House - for empanadas and Fernet while some Las Leñas person played bossa nova on the guitar. It was actually really great; the space itself is beautiful and simple. It's an old mansion in Palermo that was converted into a hostel so the details - high ceilings, marble staircases, etc - are all really interesting. Anyway, it all ended in complete debauchery and we met up with some other friends at Jet, a boliche full of people too beautiful for words, free flowing champagne, and lots of dancing. We watched the sun come up over the river, stuffing our faces with bondiola at 6 a.m. and it was heaven on earth. We drove home singing along to Andrés Calamaro and I poured myself into bed for the entire day.

Sunday was Mother's Day in Arg .... Why is Father's Day the same, but Mother's Day isn't ?? What ? Anyway. Went to a lovely and sunny asado in Belgrano. Got some sun, stuffed my face as normal and just enjoyed the first real signs of Spring. It was great ! Monday I had to go downtown and basically trekked all over freaking Microcentro meeting Hotel guys and all that jazz. It was fun though, and it wasn't until I came home and put on the news that I realized I was right in the middle of the beginning of a 24-hour strike by teachers and professors of Buenos Aires ( the public schools, that is ). I was strolling down Avenida de Mayo, and I saw all of these fully armed police officers, complete with plastic shields, hanging out in front of the Swiss Embassy. I found that ironic and laughed to myself, but then realized that the center of the strike was supposed to happen right across the street from the Embassy. Clearly bored by the task, the police decided to go hang out at the panadería and eat facturas and medialunas in the meantime. Very, very professional.

Thankfully today greeted me with strong thunderstorms and rain, which keep me cozy and relaxed and missing Bella. Now I am just watching Dr. 90210, as Deb and I always used to do, and roaming Craigslist. Tomorrow I have more interviews and whatnot, and am really hoping to have something set in stone in the next 2 weeks. I need pesos, people. Serious pesos.

Ok so I know I need to put up some pictures so here they are ...







16 October 2008

Why ...



Do Argies FORM A LINE while they wait to get on the train ? In the Northern Hemisphere, people sprawl about the platform wherever they please, and then sort of haphazardly form a clump that shoves itself into the train wherever the closest doors seem to appear. In Buenos Aires, no no, friends ... that is not how we do things here. You line up based on where you think the train doors will be ( this is done by a very inaccurate system of looking at the other trains and lining up according to that ). I was wandering around and just eating my empanada, in a little bit of a daze, and I realized that everyone was looking at me like I was a crazy woman. Anyway, I thought it was ridiculous. So, of course I took a picture ( once again with my cellphone, ugh qué bajón ). The End.

14 October 2008

Resumen


Happy Tuesday, everyone. I feel like it's Monday and I'm so freakin' tired I cannot even see straight. Let's just say it would have been smarter to celebrate the feriado the night BEFORE as opposed to the night of. I also have the weirdest neck pain and have sort of let my head hang out at a weird angle so it doesn't hurt.

Life here is going great. The job search of course, is pretty frustrating, but I expected that to be the case. Last week I went to a big Job Fair - IBM, Accenture, DirectTV, Quilmes, and other big companies were there. Honestly it wasn't perhaps the greatest thing - you would wait in line and talk to a "representative" of the company and they would do a mini-interview. I was fine with the introductions and the small talk, but when questions about what I majored in arose, I started getting the looks of confusion. Oooook, so being a philosophy major isn't prudent in the Third World. I can understand that. But come on ! Don't shuffle my papers to the bottom of the pile ! I have experience, and I like to think I have a lot to bring to the table. So we'll see where all of this goes ... This week I'm supposed to be meeting with a few solid contacts and I pray that it just works out. Le sigh. How come nannies in Buenos Aires don't make the moola like NYC nannies ? Maybe I just need to seek out the richest family and stalk them until they hire me to do something menial. Hmm ....

I'm including a picture of a llama that I bonded with at the Zoo on Saturday. Stupidly I forgot my camera so the quality on this one is purely cell-phone camera garbage. I also saw a camel, but he looked sad and lonely so I felt bad for him:



But I digress. I'm finding it hard to remain patient and understanding regarding the lack of respect Argies seem to have for others when it comes to phone calls and emails, or basically anything professional or important. At home, if someone says "yes I will call you this week" they really will call you that week. It doesn't devolve into some wild goose chase, replete with chamuyo excuses and the like. If I'm going to put a positive spin on it, which of course I should, I'll say that it forces one to be more tenacious and to really go after something that you want. I cannot help but wonder what they're doing all day ... drinking café con leche, smoking in the plaza, hanging out with the random cops on the corner and comparing cell phones. I really have no idea. But I love them.

I was ecstatic last night to dine at Sifones & Dragones yet again. A friend from Spain was in town and we took him out for dinner and then out for infamous and fabulous giant jars of g&t's from Bangalore in Palermo. It was quite the evening, full of stories from the mountain and tales of a nomad. It was also wonderful to see Favio / Tato back in his element, cooking amazing Italian food with flare. Bangalore makes me die because every time I walk in I smell CURRY and just want to stuff my face forever with it. In a perfect world, I would be the mafia owner of millions of Indian restaurants all over Buenos Aires, importing the best spices and food and then eating them all day long until I fall into a food coma. It makes me miss Sissy in London ... eating curry and lentils all the day long ! Not fair !

I should probably get back to the daily grind, emailing, calling, leaving messages, praying that someone will pity me and hire me. I'm starting to wonder if I could just be a professional student. Like, can they pay me to do that ? I guess that's what professors and those types do. I'm really good at studying, and writing, and reading a lot of things at once. I'm not going to lie, I would love to be writing a thesis write now ... Did I really just say that ? It's driving me mad. I'm sure my efforts will yield some success ... I would just like to get a job, get a lovely little place in Palermo, wander and frolic to the fruit and veg vendors, drink coffee on the terrace and enjoy weekend asados.

That's all for today. I must start taking pictures. Last night I took my camera with me but the Catalán and the Indio weren't much for reminding me to document the evening. C'est la vie.

13 October 2008

A Glimpse Of What Is To Come ...

A few things ... I finally ( after more than a whole year ) made it to the Zoo located right across the street from my old apartment. It was thoroughly depressing but, it was something to do on a Saturday. I also read an article in the NYT about the adolescent sexual revolution in Chile and this picture was included among several in a slideshow ... Floggers.


Wow. Look how he applies that hairspray with such intensity. I love it.

Anyway, back to Sifones & Dragones tonight for a Lunes Feliz. Mañana arranco de nuevo the blogging ... I promise I will provide something more exciting than a silly photograph and a few words hastily written. Happy Columbus Day over there, and whatever holiday we are celebrating here in Argentina. I'm using this rainy day to continue my recovery from a wild Saturday night and a marathon asado yesterday; I find it convenient to watch the progress of the construction of the soon-to-be largest shopping mall in all of South America from the balcony.

Alas !!
I have been tagged by the lovely Good Woman to answer some questions in 7 words. I have a feeling this will be more difficult than anticipated. Slash, I'm going to come across as painfully boring.

1. Where were you ten years ago?
I was eleven, so home from school.

2. What's on your to-do list today?
Stuff my face at Sifones y Dragones.

3. What if you were a billionaire?
Buy a house in Punta del Este.

4. Five places you have lived?
Larrimore, 34th Street, Buenos Aires. I'm boring.

5. Three bad habits?
Annoying. Hyper. Sensitive. It gets worse. Really.

6. Snacks you like?
Helado, morcilla, oreos, brie cheese, anything edible.

7. Who are you tagging?
I have one friend. She is wonderful.

10 October 2008

Things That Make Me Happy


Seeing Great Danes walking in giant happy dog groups all over the city.

Also:
Looking at my Bella collection that I have surrounding me at all times
Palermo Viejo
Feeling nostalgic by taking the Subte all the way from Catedral to Congreso
The fact that Ellen & Gossip Girl are on TV here
Sifones & Dragones

09 October 2008

Comida Casera


Ah the joys of cooking at home. I have been busy lately creating wonderful empanadas ( ok mine are the ones that look the most disfigured and pathetic ), homemade pizza dough ( it took a couple of tries but I must admit they came out great ) and the next mission in the kitchen will be a joint attempt to make some delicious bread. From scratch. That should be the most interesting, and annoying, endeavour as of yet.

I have been happily readjusting to live in Buenos Aires, although there have been some small if significant changes that have occurred in less than a year. Inflation is rampant; prices are skyrocketing and that means my wardrobe will remain more or less the same until I either a) win the lottery, b) get a lovely thing called a job, or c) a miracle occurs and inflation goes away. Empanadas used to cost 1,90 each, now they're about 2,40. That might not seem like much, but it adds up, especially given the fact that Argies love their little meat pockets.

Now that I am in Argentina on "official business" rather than a jolly jaunt for 6 months, I have had to give serious thought to the kind of job I want to get, or at least will be able to obtain. It took me 30 seconds to realize if you majored in Philosophy and History, you are screwed. That basically doesn't exist here, unless you are 100% sure you want to be a professor or something along those lines. That's why everyone studies Accounting, Marketing, Business Administration. Great. Thanks for that. So I have devised an incomplete list of the possible employment opportunities that await me:

  • Owner of a kiosko. This could actually be pretty lucrative, especially if I had a choice spot on a big intersection. I would clearly stock it with the best alfajores and the widest selection in phone cards and cigarettes. Hidden in the back would be the locutorio so my patrons could make phone calls in peace and privacy. Maybe if I've had a good year, I would even add some computers, for easy Messenger access.
  • Owner of a telo. Don't know what that is ? Ok, well, since most Argies live at home until they get married ( mostly for financial reasons ) & more often than not the Argies seem to like infidelity, all over the city are scattered "hotels" that offer rooms for 2-3 hours or even overnight for a nominal fee. Some of them are over the top and funny, with grandiose themes and B-Movie worthy cheesiness, but most just look like normal apartment buildings ( distinguished only by a purple or green light that must act as some kind of beacon to those in need ). Anyway, telos to me are hilarious because the idea of them in the US just seems ridiculous but also very practical. So I think I would be a great telo owner, and could jazz it up and make it a lovely place of business, and would never be short of customers.
  • Paco dealer. Paco is basically the Argentine version of crack, so newsworthy lately that even the New York Times wrote an article about its devastating effects ( complete with photo slide show, I must say it was pretty frightening ). Alright so I would have to travel deep into the villas to get my job done, but once again I would never have a shortage of customers, and since I am not a user, I figure I would run a pretty good business. Although I probably would get killed within the first month of work. So maybe I won't do that.
  • Finally. My favorite job, because seriously IT ISN'T EVEN A JOB. All over the popular neighborhoods, especially on weekends, in Las Cañitas, Palermo, etc, parking becomes quite difficult on the streets. This annoyance is compounded by the presence of "parking attendants" - complete with rag for spectacular waving-on ability - who surround you once you finally find a parking spot. They then "direct" you into the spot ( as if you didn't already know how to do that ) and then charge you for the "care and watch of" your vehicle. Last year they usually asked for a moneda, maybe 50 centavos, and even if you didn't give them anything you could get away with it. Now, apparenly these dudes charge upwards of 20 pesos A CAR on a busy Saturday night. Do you realize that this is completely illegitamate but still somehow accepted as a part of life ?? If I could charge 20 pesos a car, in a busy neighborhood all month long, I would end up with very full pockets.
Anyway. I digress. I thought I would use this time to criticize Kirchner, because I hate her. I saw her on TV the other day, proclaiming that the Argentine people are modest and humble. First of all ... I don't think owning a $30,000 Birkin bag makes you modest or humble. Also. The reason an Argentine is an Argentine is because they are NOT humble. They are the most proud people I know, and that is why I love them. Yes maybe they live modestly because they buy everything in "cuotas" and cannot always afford to have the newest and most expensive things, but each Argentine carries himself with such ego and pride that it's almost too much to handle. When you add a mullet to the mix, it's even better.

I should probably stop for now. Otherwise I will keep typing rando things all day. But. Keep up the hopes for me, a poor Philosophy major who just needs gainful employment and eventually an apartment of her own. All I want is to finally get settled and feel like I am ready to make my own way here in Buenos Aires. It's a shame I have to accept that my 6 months of pure fun and silliness are truly over ( in all ways ) and that the real world is closing in. I know things will be fine but for now, I cannot help but crave a little more certainty and normalcy.

I miss you guys and I hope some of you get off your bums and come visit. Remember, Christmas here is SUMMER and Punta del Este is truly heaven on earth. So, I will be welcoming visitors, especially if you want to find me a job beforehand and maybe find a way to bring me Bella from Arlington.

More to come ... probably musings about the joys of renting movies that have just premiered in theaters, continued strikes by the Campo, what it means to go to an Argentine wedding ( going to one in a few weeks ), and employment updates.