Chusma

In one of my past lives, I was definitely a gossipy old granny. I love knowing who's who when we're out at a restaurant and checking out people everywhere I go. I know. Kind of lame, but it's fun to me. Luckily in BA there are lots of quasi "famous" (let's just say local "celebs" aka B-list people) that you're bound to see, whether you're at the gym, a Palermo restaurant, or somewhere in between.

At Bella Italia last week, we had a pretty good celeb-tastic sighting. Seated all together were City Mayor Mauricio Macri, his stunning wife/fashion designer Juliana Awada, and TV journalist Viviana Canosa. Best part - Viviana used to date/live with Juliana's ex! Juicy details like that make it even more fun to eavesdrop (a little hard to do if you're 5 tables away).

 

 

 Two days before, at Bengal (always full of politicos during lunch since it's next door to the Foreign Ministry. Vice-President Amado Boudou totally checked me out when we saw him there last August) with Katie, we saw Carlos Bianchi (one of the most famous soccer players/coaches in Argentina & who oddly resembles Larry David) and Ricardo Alfonsín (former presidential candidate & son of Argentina's first democratically elected president after the military dictatorship ended in 1983). I love a good sighting. Sad.

 

 

And the Skies Opened Up

Finally, after days of forecasting rain, the skies turned black, the wind started to howl, and the rain began to fall (sideways). These storms are common this time of year in Buenos Aires, and as miserable as they can be when you're caught outside without an umbrella, they're so soothing and meditative to me.

I woke up to an empty house. Jose is in Uruguay and Katie left for New York last night. It was a whirlwind, her trip was so short, and it just wasn't enough time. Being away from your best friend for so long should be illegal. Just laying on the couch in pajamas, eating grapes and reading magazines is infinitely better when you're joined by the person who has known you the longest. It was great.

The winds of change are really blowing through Argentina. It's hard, knowing that there's nothing you can really do about it, but wanting so badly for things to improve. Now when Argentines travel abroad, they won't be able to withdraw dollars from local ATMs unless they have an account here in dollars (which will be subject to approval - you have to demonstrate that your income is enough to justify the purchase of X amount of dollars per month). Please someone tell me how this is good for business, so to speak? How is this OK? As much as I love the Argentines - for their passion, for their insanity, for their downright ridiculous way of life (I mean that in a loving way) - I cannot understand their apathy when it comes to politics and government. No one cares. They just say "ah, it's been this way forever, no use trying to change it." What?! It's odd - because the protest is such a social and cultural tool here - that those who should be miffed by these measures just sit back and shrug their shoulders. The ones causing the roadblocks are the shantytown residents who demand justice for someone who was murdered there days previous. Or who want a raise in their (sadly) already low salary. Or who just want to piss everyone else off and ruin their morning commute. No one protests these new economic measures -- the ATM limits, the THIRD PRICE INREASE OF 2012 confirmed by Moreno, the increasingly stricter import controls ..

I was speaking to a friend who lives in New York today. He's one of the most brilliant people I know, very well-read, cultured, and all around smart. He had no idea what was going on here. Granted I don't expect everyone to be up to date on Argentine ins-and-outs, but I was surprised to be reminded that the press and media in the US are still focused so much on Europe (and then maybe Asia/China). The Economist and the WSJ cover local issues very well, I think, but if you don't read those regularly then you will get a skewed vision. You'll see BA as land of tango and steak, cheap goods and great vacations. There's a big disconnect there.

Anyway, it was disheartening. Not sure why I feel that way, but I do.

Like I said to Katie, I feel like I'm on an island. A very far away island. Screaming so loud but no one can hear me. I think I've lost my voice.

Beware the Ides of March

This post is delayed. And I will write more tomorrow on my day off most likely. But here is a nice photo that will hopefully make you smile.

Looking for Help

Hello people. Happy Lent (Are you supposed to "celebrate" Lent? Probably not, but let's just go with it)

I have been trying to figure out how to present this to my friends/family/strangers in BA and beyond for the past few days, but have been struggling. Basically, there is a guy in BA who is fighting metastasized colorectal cancer and is unable to pay his medical bills. His landlord (another expat, and clearly a consummate jerk) locked him out of the apartment, leaving him literally with just the clothes on his back and no access to his life-saving cancer drugs, small savings, or personal documents.

Rick founded Juanele AR, a really cool bilingual newsletter on the art scene in BA. I have never met him personally but have always admired his project. Once I heard about his plight - thanks to the connections of social media - his story stuck with me for days, leaving this dull ache and pain in my heart.

Contrary to what you might assume, Rick is not a "lucky" expat who can be treated in a nice private hospital here in BA. After using most of his savings to pay for an initial stay in a private clinic when first diagnosed, Rick has been cared for at two public hospitals here - the Rivadavia and now the Marie Curie. In the public health system, your stay is free, but you have to pay for things like soap, toilet paper, and other "amenities" we wouldn't normally think twice about. Incidentals like colostomy bags are also not covered. I have been in the Rivadavia and let me tell you, that place is just heartbreaking. Feral cats roam the halls and there is a general sense of malaise and sadness as you walk through. If you're from the US, you would be shocked to see the conditions. It's not a place I would want to go if I were really sick. It's not a place Rick (or anyone) should have to be, let alone when they're fighting an aggressive cancer.

Rick has a website - Rick Fights Cancer - detailing his struggle and providing updates on his now (more dire) situation.  I am not completely familiar with the whole backstory, but all that matters in my mind is that some asshole kicked him out of his home, owes him about US$2,200 (which would make a huge difference in his treatment costs) and has left him high and dry in the most vulnerable of situations.

He is trying to raise money by the end of April to help offset his costs for an upcoming second surgery. If I could, I would donate hundreds. Unfortunately, I am on a very limited income and can't spare as much as I would like. But even US$10 would help .... as we always say in these situations, every little bit counts.

So if you feel like you want to start off this Lenten season by helping someone who could really use the kindness of a good Samaritan, please click on Rick's website - Read his story and see if you can manage to make a small donation.

Like I said, I don't even know him personally but something about him has struck a chord and I would love to know that I could make a teeny bit of difference in his situation.

More Argentina News

I used to post the link to a funny news roundup blog from the Argentina Independent's website. Haven't done that in a while. You're in for a ride ... make sure to read about what's been going on lately please.

Thoughts of a Foreigner - Weekly News Roundup

Highlights - Sean Penn in Argentina, taking sides with CFK on the Malvinas/Falklands issue, even though he should probably just butt out of the whole thing. The VP Amado Boudou is a completely infantile and unprofessional politican who was completely out of line when wearing a shirt that said "Clarín (daily newspaper) Lies" while performing at a concert. Pretty sure if Joe Biden wore some militant slogans on his clothes there would be backlash ... and here, nothing. Typical. And.... there is a mountain lion on the loose in the northern suburbs. Be sure to read!

Dogs

My favorites. From the NatGeo piece on the Westminister. 

Long Weekend

Happy President's Day/Mardi Gras/Carnaval to everyone! Today and Tuesday are holidays (still have to work tomorrow though,  the news doesn't get a vacation) but it's been nice to take it easy and enjoy this cloudy weekend. Threats of storms and rain have hovered since Thursday but we've yet to have a downpour. I would love it - a perfect excuse to head to the movies and eat some ice cream.

Things are crazy as usual here. The school year is set to start this week but - surprise, surprise - the teachers' unions haven't been able to come to agreements with the government on their salaries. You think schoolteachers earn peanuts in the US? Here on average their salaries are AR$1,300 a month. Yep, that is about US$300. They are fighting for a base salary of AR$3,100 which is much more fair, though still frightfully low, given inflation and the crazy cost of living these days. It comes in a striking contrast to the news that legislators and Senators received a 100% RAISE on their salaries - from AR$15,000 to more than AR$30,000. Add up the extras they get (travel vouchers that, if not used, are given to them for cash value) and some of them could make up to AR$50,000 in a month.

Imported products are harder and harder to get .... Although we were surprised to see our grocery store's shelves stocked with Milky Ways, Snickers, and Starburst last night. A lot of merchants have been hoarding/stockpiling certain items - like blenders, irons, etc - and are now selling them at exorbitant prices because demand is high and supply is pathetically low. There is a shortage of cancer and AIDS drugs, repair parts for factory machinery, and many other items you encounter in daily life. Steps closer to Venezuela and Cuba ...

Yesterday was a double birthday - Deb & Redmere. I would have loved for all of us to be together celebrating, but alas .. Hopefully next year. I miss them.

I've been cooking up a storm lately and was so happy that my mom sent me a new cookbook to try out! I will keep you posted on my progress. Lately I've just been on a creative empanada kick, nothing too crazy. Given that we don't have a/c in the kitchen and standing over a hot stove in those conditions makes me less likely to take on a hardcore culinary project. Soon! Once things cool off...

I have an ant infestation in our garden/terraces. I have no idea where they're coming from but I'm about to launch a full-out attack on them. They're farming aphids and other weird bugs that are destroying our plants - this lovely tree we have, my hibiscus, the jasmine... even my succulent! I've been spraying the crap out of them with an insecticide but it's not working. I think I will just dump cornmeal or baby powder all over the place where I see them trekking along. Since we don't have a real yard, I can't really locate the actual nest. This is war.

That is all. Happy day off to everyone!